The Rainbow Bridge of Tanah Lot — Article By George Iber
In 1994 Master Ou visited the Tanah Lot area of Bali for the first time. It is a beautiful rocky overlook on the coast of Bali. It consists of two shrine temples, Tanah Lot and Pura Batu Balong. These apparently are a part of what was a network of temple lighthouses for earlier sea travelers. Today worshipers place offerings at the temple gates and visitors come to enjoy the serene views and listen to the ocean waves of the Indian Ocean. Tanah Lot is an island at high tide, and the currents can be quite strong. At low tide people walk on the exposed rock to enjoy the special energy. The locals claim that the energy tests couples and that if a couple visits the area and their love is not pure then they will certainly be separated soon.
This year, on 14/5/14, when our group visited with Master Ou, he explained to us that during his first visit a large storm was threatening the coast of Bali. Due to the sporadic rain, there was a rainbow visible to many who were there, but in addition Master Ou could see a goddess floating on the rainbow. Not surprisingly she was not visible to the others. What did this portend? Master Ou knew that the sight of this goddess meant that the storm would not touch Bali. From that experience he wondered if the ancient Bali people might have witnessed the goddess and left an image of her on the rock carvings of the temples. Perhaps they held that their creator had the form of a woman. As he visited other temples he did finally see one carving that was similar.
This year we visited on an auspicious set of days. In Buddhist tradition the full moon of May represents the birth, enlightenment and death of the Buddha. In Bali the Hindu tradition also embraces the Buddha and many celebrations were being held on those days. We had spent the day visiting two other temples in Bali, Taman Ayun and Ulun Danu Bedugul (where we sang standing in the lake). Now it was nearing sunset and the ocean views from Tanah Lot were inspiring. The surf that day had perfect swells, about 5 to 6 feet high. In fact on other beaches surfers from all over the world were having a great day too. As we walked around the shore Master Ou explained some interesting features of the site. For example the gates that opened to the ocean had never had closing doors, expressing an open and friendly welcome to travelers from all realms.
When we approached the locked shrines he posed a seemingly obvious question, “Why are the temples locked?” The obvious answer seems to be to keep tourists out to prevent damage. But of course the full answer is a bit more interesting. From time past, and all around the world, temples have been located in areas that are pleasing to the deities. It may be the best view, the high mountain, lakefront property, a way of saying we invite you and give you our best. In addition only at specific times could the general public visit; on the full moon, or the equinox. And even then, these appointed times were marked by ritual and lead by qualified individuals.
Speaking of qualified individuals, when we were all admiring the beautiful waves from the vantage point of the natural rock bridge, Master Ou mentioned that humans had the potential to fly across the waves. The trick, he said, was to be “qualified.” I can only imagine.
All of you who have spent time with Master Ou have had the experience of a slight shift of perceptions. Imagine the confluences, Master Ou’s discourse, sacred temple visits, singing together, full moon, the Buddha’s birthday celebrations, low tide, walking on energized sea scape, talks of rainbow deities, embracing the ocean, feeling love. Something was bound to happen! We were all walking back from standing on the rocky land that separates Tanah Lot from the shore at low tide, when I had the chance to look to the Northwest. From that perspective the usual open arch of the rock bridge to Pura Batu Balong appears to close, revealing the figure of a praying goddess. The entire group began to take pictures.
In the charm of the moment I motioned to Master Ou, look at the figure, immediately he saw it, and all the group put their attention on the image. Although it was just a perspective of a natural rock formation, it was perfect for the moment. The water moving back and forth gave it some life. When the waves swept in, the goddess appeared to be wearing a long elegant flowing dress. The sunlight on the water at this hour was a sparkling silver and gold. Even the sound of the waves crashing onto shore added to the effect, breathing in and out, embracing. How it was that our group was the only one to see this image, so alive and beautiful. Even as we pointed to it passersby kept walking. Even more remarkable, a closer view revealed additional figures. Mandy became so excited, describing the outline of a man’s face clearly visible at the back of the silvery goddess and at her knees was a pouting boy. Immediately she told the story of a pouting boy about to complain to the sea god that his mother was paying too much attention to the sea. The entire image took on a yin/yang motif. The silvery goddess surrounded by male figures. Ah, the sun setting and the full moon rising. How I wish for that moment again.
Back in Malaysia, thinking about writing this, I am practicing the advanced form and the images of Tanah Lot and Bato Balong come to mind. In my mind I can see the temples, the shore, there is the rainbow bridge, so faint, but the gods are leaving. No, tears come to my eyes. Oh my heart, I feel sadness. Inner feelings, so strong. Why? I do not know, but somehow the soul knows.